It is a little too easy to shift into the next phase of fashion week-- the world is already in London, resetting their eyes for fresh runways at Somerset House -- but New York still needs to have a moment here at SHEI. Helmut Lang designers Michael and Nicole Colovos described their newest collection as "sharp slouch," but this description seems to extend to the entirety of New York's collections. A mix of strong shoulders and severe lines was found on almost every runway, and what was so fascinating about this year's shows was how every designer made this "sharp slouch" their own.
There were coats: hulking, cocooned, all-encompassing coats, down to the knees and even to the mid-calf, with razor-like lapels and deep necklines. Though a staple for fall, designers put an even larger emphasis on outerwear this year. Some of the most memorable came from Alexander Wang, DKNY, and Proenza Schouler.
There were V-necks: on jackets, on dresses, in mesh cutouts, not to mention the angular seams
, and quilted fabrics that played into the V-theme. Almost all of the sex appeal from this season came by way of these sharp angles, acting as arrows to point out all of the curves of a woman's body, cutting through the masculinity and shapelessness of other prominent pieces. Jill Stuart created a striking cocktail dress that did just that, as did Cushnie et Ochs (angular cuts are the designers' trademark,) and Altuzarra.
Next, there was the notion of "moto-whimsy" amongst many collections, adding to the momentum of sharp and soft. Phillip Lim and Karen Walker used quite a bit of color, relatively speaking, as did Rag & Bone and Tibi. Blue was the standout color, followed by punchy shades of red and orange. Yellow, which was the front-runner last year, was almost completely absent apart from the Michael Kors show, but green had a few shining moments.
New York's curveball was Rodarte. The Mulleavy sisters threw in a taste of their hometown Santa Cruz and used acidic, trippy tye-dye prints on their gowns.
The collections at New York were captivating enough to make us forget that we were seeing them from a computer screen, but with that being said it still may be difficult to translate some of that luxury over to a college wardrobe. However, New York's designers did a great job at presenting some very accessible trends. Next fall we plan on doing the following:
Borrow from the boys-- dads, brothers, boyfriends, and best friends are all fair game here. Wear something thick, something chunky, something that doesn't try too hard to be anything but high quality.
Keep my neck bare-- it's going to be more of an earrings season. The combination of a low neckline with bare skin is going to have a near-intimidating appeal for both days and nights.
Use color for a shock factor-- the acidic blues and fuchsias of the runway made us do double-takes, but the frequency was spare enough to stay interesting. We'll be keeping a neutral wardrobe with intense pops of bright and unexpected hues to shake things up.
The mainstays of the Autumn/Winter collections are always ease and indulgence-- 2013 is no different. However, once one decides to incorporate the collections into their own personal style, that sense of comfort and satisfaction should always be present.