The Pioneer of Autumn: Burberry Prorsum A/W 2015-16
While the rest of the world is fighting it out in the bitter cold, fashion is moving at a rapid pace to the Autumn/Winter season of 2015-16. While some trends are being projected to come out on top, others will return to the recycle bin when these looks hit the streets in the coming months. The rotation has moved abroad to London Fashion Week, where the presenters are more classically based than avant-garde (a term used in fashion and the arts to mean new, innovative, or experimental). There are certain shows that are highly anticipated, and when they arrive, their front rows glow with the crème de la crème of the fashion industry. Burberry Prorsum is on the top of that list. This year, the signature trench coat took a bit of a backseat as the collection explored visual texture in the form of some unexpected prints, which as Vogue mentions played into its title of “Patchwork, Patterns and Prints.” The palette was reminiscent of the forest, with a range of darker cool tones and sepias, reds, and browns that created an organically murky atmosphere.
The line immediately separates itself from everything that has preceded it so far. While many couturiers have gone for yet another retro-revival, highlighting furs and velvets as the season’s fabrics, Burberry’s latest ready-to-wear looks are all suede and fringe. However, the line still manages to incorporate timeless fur into over half of the looks. The resulting effect is not trying to place itself in one era, but rather do what a line should do: innovate into the modern day.
The progression is seamless. Burberry is world renowned for its outerwear, and is the only couture presentation to include menswear on its womenswear catwalk. The triumphant features are the ponchos, capes, and overcoats, which are a fresh alternative to the classic trench. It is an expression of bohemian youth, with pieces that bring Coachella into the winter season, but remain relaxed enough to expect a hint of intermittent warmth. Shapely cutouts, jaunty écharpes, and the final motif of a pompom bracelet balance naïveté with the element of sophistication. The accompanying totes and clutches stay true to style, with flashes of fringe and animal print worn in harmony with the clothes.
The styling opts for thigh-high suede boots in a uniformly edgy camo-patchwork and lace up ankle pumps tying together the fringe in the clothes. The hair is slightly repetitive, as Burberry showcased the same fringe-like bangs and middle parts during its 2014 shows. Luckily this styling is not overbearing, and instead accents the line well. The makeup used to line the eyes is darker than usual, but not enough to make a huge statement.
Many familiar faces made appearances on the Burberry runway, including London native Edie Campbell, and rising star Malaika Firth, both of whom are part of the ad campaigns. The attendees made Burberry Prorsum one of the most desirable events to be at all week. Veterans Cara Delevingne, Jourdan Dunn, Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, and even recent Grammy nominee Sam Smith all sat front row, adorned in none other than the A/W line. Singer Clare Maguire was also featured once again as the night's entertainment.
Burberry’s new direction remains true to its British roots, yet manages to combine inspiration from an era of freewill into structured staples. It truly stands out as one of the season’s best collections.
Photos courtesy of Vogue UK.